Ulyana Sergeenko's couture plays on her Russian roots

If the couture shows so far have focused on a certain type of woman wearing a certain type of clothes, then Russian designer Ulyana Sergeenko looked at where that woman has come from. It makes sense for her to do that, because she knows her customer type already: Russian, mainly, and interested in the sartorial heritage of their homeland.

You can see as much from the audiences at these shows, where customers wear Sergeenko’s designs almost religiously. The effect of them all together in one place is like spending an afternoon in Chekhov’s Cherry Orchard. In a good way.

For spring, the patriotic focus had shifted slightly, taking in inspirations from the neighbouring southern Soviet republics of Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan, a trans-Siberian narrative that ran throughout the collection. That made for a considered and interesting take on both day- and evening-wear, into which Sergeenko had woven Oriental references alongside traditional Slavic ones. A folksy khalat robe became a luxe take on an opera coat, for example.

There were deep forest greens and striking scarlets in watered silk, taffeta and satin, making up coats and overskirts worn with cigarette pants underneath. Bra-tops and pencils skirts, their hems elegantly gathered and full, tulip-skirted gowns had both a familiar aspect and something more foreign to them.

It was a successful development from the pastoral Russian heritage Sergeenko has mined before; this felt more citified in its colour palette and cut – and therefore perhaps more accessible for those beyond the motherland – but without diminishing the nostalgic sense of femininity that devoted clients at this couture house love so much. 

There was even a foray into menswear – two looks’ worth, anyway – so expect to see some oligarchs pressed into snappier outfits in the coming season, too.

Click the gallery to see all the looks from the Ulyana Sergeenko spring 2014 show.