The two new designer names to take note of: Ondrej Adamek and Michael Power
Central Saint Martins always put on a good show. But this one was an exceptionally good show. And if you need proof, then it’s in the number of winners of this year’s L’oréal Professional Creative Award, which was judged by fashion kingpin Christopher Kane. Usually there is one; this year there are two: Ondrej Adamek and Michael Power.
Adamek’s collection showed models dressed in long, blue and pink shifts bursting with enormous cumulous shaped panels. Clean, geometric shapes are chopped from necklines and hems, architectural godets swing from seams. There is a card-like quality to the fabrics, the effect of which is like watching a roll of beautiful wallpaper unravel and waft around the models ankles.
Power’s collection is poles apart from Adamek’s surreal, gravity defying vision. He’s flying the flag for urban eveningwear. Oversized t-shirt shapes are cut in sheer black chiffon and layered, and then layered again; sleeves trail well past the hands and are slashed open to reveal the arm. It doesn’t sound like it, but the overall effect is quite modest, save for a few peekaboo cutouts. Graphic lines of white, yellow and blue pop against that black backdrop, and every now and then a fat roll of embellishment lollops, bringing your attention to all that lovely beadwork that permeates the collection.
But it isn’t just the winners you turn out to see at CSM. Eleven designers showed this year, and more than just two are worth keeping an eye on. Anita Hirlekar had the whole audience reaching for their phones with her textural, sculpted 3D silhouettes. What a lovely canvas they made for that firework-like embroidery that exploded all over them. Graham Fan managed to knit what looked like tape ribbons from old cassettes (though we suspect it was probably plastic) into amazing volumes, creating shapes that felt fresh yet elegant. And then there was Drew Henry. Making huge pockets, raw-hemmed ponyskin, khaki green and elasticated waistbands slick and covetable is no easy task. But that’s exactly what he’s done. The finish was impeccable - that’s a collection that wouldn’t look out of place on the Paris catwalk. We wouldn’t be surprised if Chloe come a-knocking.










