After the successful launch of its long-awaited UK flagship in November, J.Crew doesn't have much more to prove – but Jenna Lyons and team did so regardless at the brand's autumn presentation in New York today.

If there has been one difficulty at the heart of J.Crew's exponential expansion in recent years, it's that people don't know how to label it. Is it high street, simply because that's where its stores sit? Is it bridge because that's what the prices reflect? Or is it designer, given the complexities design-wise of the pieces offered?

Those questions seemed to serve as inspiration for the new collection, which referenced design schools such as Bauhaus in modernist graphic sweatshirts, baroque swirls on opera coats and printed trousers, and arts and crafts in a hyper-real floral print that recurred on separates and a tunic dress.

The message was that we should consider the clothes, rather than the context or the commercial placement.

It's that ethos which has served Lyons and her brand so well – highly designed pieces with all the comfort and ease of familiar wardrobe staples. So a well-fitted pair of cigarette pants are given an instant update or more directional feel in micro-tweed or jacquard, or a T-shirt dress has a drop-waist or tiers to make it feel fresh.

There were nods to the 1950s, in a Pepto-Bismol pink boat neck coat made from a punched wool, and to the familiar sports-prep in silk bomber-parkas (rapidly becoming A Thing this fashion week), as well as a more luxury-oriented approach to textiles in the use of shearling and gilt.

It's these details that drive the price up, of course, but looking at these pieces close-up, they stand out from their contemporaries for being considered and crafted.

The fact they're also mass-produced and coming to a high street near you just happens to be an extra bonus.