The collection unveiled in New York last night was unmistakably Versace, in leather and high-shine PVC, amped-up mohicans and stompy cut-out boots. It was 'vunk', as Donatella dubbed the autumn mainline collection (in homage to this season of studs and iconoclasm, of Camden-u-like) but cleaned up, by way of Anderson's signature ascetic cut and idiosyncratic use of colour.

For the menswear, something darker and less obviously Italian macho than usual, with the avant garde touches seen at Anderson's last show within the discipline in January. The traditional Versace customer likes to peacock but usually with a show of kitch virility: this felt more urban – no less showy, but less caricatured – and was stronger for that.

For the womenswear, blank planes of tangerine and dulled fuschia, cut geometrically, panelled and deliberately awkward in their fit on the body made for a jigsaw of rock 'n' roll, and minimalist rebellion, inlaid with lace and slapped with heavily ironic 'Versus' sticky labels – a stroke of meta-branding that the Anderson customer will knowingly roll their eyes at, and the Versace customer will lap up.

Click the gallery for all the looks in the collection.