The team apply face cream, a top derm critiques it

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Face cream isn't always as straight-forward as it appears. Yes, you've got a nice weighty pot of delicious smelling gloop that you routinely apply to your face, but there's more to it than that. Much more.

You see, the key to your face cream is in the application; exactly how you press it onto the contours of your cheeks is of paramount importance. It's a bit like body brushing (always, always towards the heart) or how do brush your hair (from the ends upwards to avoid split ends - heaven forbid). Technique is EVERYTHING. 

With this in mind, we thought we'd get help. From top Harley Street dermatologist, Dr. Sam Bunting, no less. We demonstrated to her our own daily technique, and she came back with some informative and knowledgeable remarks. The results were quite fascinating...

Up & Away, as done by junior fashion editor, Elin.

'My mum always told me to moisturise upwards, never downwards! You don’t need to give gravity any more help. I vaguely do upwards sweeping motions, but that’s the extent of the ‘technique’. I get the whole of my hand involved (clean of course), in a ‘smothering’ type action. 

What Sam said: Elin has a great technique. She makes good use of the lengths of her fingers (rather than just using fingertips, a common error) and has a systematic method, which makes it less likely she'll skip areas. However she needs to remember the bridge of her nose when applying her daily sunscreen. 

Swipe and rub, as done by staff writer, Laura.

'I don’t have any clever technique when it comes to applying face-cream, so I’ll just swipe it on with my index finger, starting usually with my cheeks, followed by chin, nose and forehead, then rub it in.' 

What Sam said: 'Using this technique, product application would be very patchy - especially for something like sunscreen, where you want an even application coating the whole face and neck.' 

The butterfly effect, as done by beauty writer, Angelica.

'I rub the cream into my fingers before applying it symmetrically onto my cheeks, forehead and chin. Mine is a sort of mirrored application where I sweep my hands over the contours of my face evenly and at the same time on both sides. It reminds me of the symmetry of a butterfly's wings!'

What Sam said: 'Good technique for an even distribution of product over the face. However in skipping the upper lip, around the eyes and neck, you're missing out on some of the key targets of a good skincare regime.' 

Patter cake, patter cake, as done by contributing beauty editor, Emma.

'I like using a lot of thicker creams so first warm them up between my fingers before patting, as opposed to rubbing, them in. It works best with heavier formulas and it's a habit that's stuck.' 

What Sam said: 'Emma's technique is great. She's using a decent amount of the surface area of her hands for even distribution and she's massaging the product in. This ensures an even coating of product and encourage product penetration - vital if you want your products to deliver on the anti-ageing front, where the ingredients need to get down into the dermis. AND she's remembered her neck! Top marks.'

The rolling wave, as done by beauty intern, Alice.

'I start with my cheeks and use upward motions to massage it into my face. I make sure I rub underneath my eyes too as I know that's an important area to keep moisturised.'

What Sam said: 'Hmm. Alice is not going to get significant penetration with her light-handed technique and she's barely tackling 50% of her skin - forehead, nose, chin, temples and neck are skipped. She does however get a brownie point for remembering her under-eye area.'

 

So overall, we're not a completely hopeless bunch; there are some good bits to be noted. Though Sam did add, 'One point I'd make is that everyone could do with applying leave-on products, designed to target structures deeper in the skin (so basically all anti-ageing and hyperpigmentation products) with more vigour - this will help them penetrate and also makes them less likely to accumulate on the surface, and potentially irritate.'

It's interesting though, because there's a lot to be said for the way you apply your cream, not just what you apply. And we've learnt five important things from this simple exercise: 

-don't forget areas like the upper lip, under eye and bridge of the nose

-apply products with more vigour to help them penetrate

-make the most of the whole surface area of the hands when applying your face cream

-the neck, the neck the neck! As important as the face

-try a patting technique to press product further into the skin, allowing it to soak in better

Remember all these pointers next time you unscrew the lid of your moisturiser and you'll be on the right track in no time. Happy rubbing.

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