Turning 30 is a milestone for everyone, but does it affect our skin and its propensity for ageing in the same way?  Having just celebrated her 30^th birthday, Grace Timothy unpicks the science from the fiction

According to cosmetic doctor, Vincent Wong, the 30s tipping point for skin is a very real concern. ‘30 is when all the big signs of ageing start to appear,’ he says, ‘It’s when you wake up one morning and you see lines and sagginess in the mirror that you could have sworn were not there last night.’ That sounds like the beginning of a horror film, not a new decade.

So what’s actually happening inside our skin? "Our body is designed to reproduce in our teens and twenties. When we get to our 30s, our reproductive hormones start to taper off, resulting in hair thinning and lack of skin elasticity. Also, our human growth hormone (HGH) production decreases in our 30s. Some studies have shown that the HGH level at 30 is approximately a quarter of the level at age 18. This results in slower cell turnover, decrease production in elastin and collagen.'

"Our human growth hormone (HGH) production decreases in our 30s. Some studies have shown that the HGH level at 30 is approximately a quarter of the level at age 18." - Vincent Wong, cosmetic doctor

There’s more - the texture too will change, according to Grace Fodor, founder of age-correcting make-up brand, Studio 10. ‘As skin’s cell turnover starts to slow down, it’ll begin looking dull and uneven. Pores will become larger but at the same time, produce less of the natural oils we need. The excess of dry and dead cells clog pores and make skin look flaky.” And that’s just the start of things to come, people. Over the next five years beyond 30, it’ll get worse, exacerbated by poor lifestyle choices like smoking and a crappy diet. Happy 30^th birthday to me.

However, all is not lost – where there’s a will, there’s a serum. ‘It’s never too late to prevent further damage,’ says A-List facialist, Sarah Chapman. ‘You can support cell repair and collagen structure by incorporating high levels of vitamin A and peptides.’ So, I have coped with this threat of imminent decrepitude with a finely tuned shopping list. All the ‘go big or go home’ make-up stuff for sweaty nightclubs and wrinkle-free days that don’t start until 11am need extra scaffolding. ‘It’s about improving texture and quality of your skin,’ advises Vincent. So what are the best transitional products to take you from 29 to 30?

"You can support cell repair and collagen structure by incorporating high levels of vitamin A and peptides." - Grace Fodor, founder of Studio 10

My favourite is Sisleyouth, (£106), an emulsion-like serum billed as the ideal ‘first anti-ageing treatment’ for your 30s. It’s expensive, yes, but I’d spend more on a pair of shoes and I wear my skin every day. Tackling the early signs of ageing – mainly wrinkles and dullness – and boosting collagen to prevent the habitual sag, it has all the peptides and antioxidants of traditional anti-ageing solutions but it’s so light, it can slip seamlessly into your existing regime as a little booster. And as one who suffers the odd breakout (curiously, more so now than in my 30s), it has to be that weightless for me to even consider it. I alternate it with the less-wincingly priced Carita Ideal Hydration Lagoon Serum, (£54) – a lovely pre-foundation prep – as I’m acutely aware that dried-husk stage is next up.

With hydration nailed, refining the texture is high on the agenda. I ditched my regular moisturiser for Dr Perricone MD Face Finishing Moisturiser, (£57), which contains Alpha Lipoic Acid to gently slough away dulling dead skin cells. As a back-up I finish my evening cleanse with First Aid Beauty Daily Radiance Pads, (£14.35)  – great for clarifying, cleansing and with a reassuring tingle. Less of a peel, more of a deep cleanse, Dr Perricone MD Chloro Plasma (£67) has also made the cut – for that taut, glowing skin you thought was gone for good, even on a hangover. Kiehl’s Hydro-Plumping Re-Texturizing Serum Concentrate, (£40) – launching in September - is set to be another reliable fresh-face solution, especially for severely dehydrated skin that looks flaky or rough.

"Dr Perricone MD Chloro Plasma has also made the cut – for that taut, glowing skin you thought was gone for good, even on a hangover."

Around the 30 mark is also a great time to switch to a cleansing balm – less drying than a foam or milk - my favourite of which has to be Emma Hardie Amazing Face Moringa Cleansing Balm, (£36). Eye makeup remover also became more pivotal in my head – something conditioning that melts even the toughest mascara so I’m not dragging and mushing that delicate, wrinkle-prone skin to a walnut shell. For me, it’s Lancome Bi-Facil, (£21) when I’m feeling flush and The Body Shop Camomile Waterproof Eye and Lip Make Up Remover, (£8) if I’m not.

I had never used an eye cream – I simply continued my SPF up to the eye area – but then when scrutinising my newly tinted brows (this is a real help for those with rapidly greying brows like me) I realised I was totally neglecting them, even though the thin, delicate skin there is the first site to show real damage. I’ve picked a real all-rounder for general maintenance for now – Alpha H Absolute Eye Complex, (£34.50). It’s got the doctor-recommended peptides, a little resurfacing flower acid and Hyaluronic Acid – following the same theme I’m rolling out across my face in an eye-friendly gel I can use morning and night.

"Eye makeup remover also became more pivotal in my head – something conditioning that melts even the toughest mascara so I’m not dragging and mushing that delicate, wrinkle-prone skin to a walnut shell."

Of course, most important of all is fending off further damage with SPF. I’m just happy it’s now easier to wedge into your regime than the gloopy, sludgy emulsion of yesteryear, especially Zelens new Daily Defence Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 30, (£55) and Alpha H Daily Essential Moisturiser SPF 50+, (£27).

So I’m ticking all the cosmetic boxes now. But I’m aware my diet still leaves a lot to be desired, so I asked Jamila Askarova, founder of Gazelli at Atelier Beaute: what other easy changes can I make to ease the transition into my 30s? “Introducing a regular intake of alkaline forming foods such as almonds, kale, pears and lemons that are rich in anti-oxidants and minerals such as Calcium, Potassium and Magnesium will help to promote healthy blood, skin, hair and nails, and overall wellbeing.” Sounds good. Maybe my 30s won’t be such a horror after all…

It’s not all doom and gloom, great-looking skin from 30 and beyond is just a question of shifting your mindset a few degrees. Click the gallery for the women who have nailed it.