The 12 things you need to know about the Paris shows

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The Double Exit
Or in the case of Saint Laurent and Elie Saab, the triple. Is there anything more retro-fabulous than more than one model exiting at the same time? Well, retro no longer, as Raf Simons at Dior decreed it cool again, along with that other 80s trope, Power Dressing. If it works for Raf... *adjusts shoulder pad*

The Coats
Paris was full of fantastic outerwear, from long tailored numbers at Celine to fuzzy, patchworked fur at Chloe, with pastels and peacoats and parkas in between. It's great news for your budget, your inner mum and your internal thermostat come autumn.

Utilitarian Deluxe
Function and fashion combine in this trend, which foregrounds pockets over and above prettiness, and khaki rather than couture. Comfort and cool in one easy move.

The Return of Boho
Could it be? The trend we've carefully pigeonholed as '2004' makes a comeback as lady-like mysticism at Chloe and Givenchy, where ruffles, drapes and mysterious symbols add an edge of wantonness to the usual bourgeois set-up.

Grey
Bad weather and John Major, that's what grey used to mean. But for autumn, it's the most chic shade - non-committal between black and white, perfectly matched with navy: grey was Haider Ackermann and Viktor & Rolf's starting point for classic but quirky pieces you'll want in your wardrobe. And that you'll wear.

The tweed
Heritage fabrics were huge news across every city this season, but in Paris, tweed and Prince of Wales check crystallised into something more conceptual, beyond the mere re-imagination of grunge or rusticism. At Saint Laurent, it came in an 80s Bryan Ferry fit and at Margiela it was draped and deconstructed.

The tailoring
In line with the other cities, Paris designers fielded tailoring that was masculine and anti-fit - broad in the shoulder, in extremes at Comme des Garçons where sleeves reached below the knee. Elsewhere it was gamine but practical, the easiest way to dress up for autumn.

Ribbed knits
Whenever I wrote the word 'knit' this season, it was usually preceded by the word 'ribbed'. This reached its zenith at Celine, where one model wore a tunic and trousers made entirely from oatmeal ribbed wool. You have your orders.

Madchester
Utter joy as designers create for the women they are, not the women they feel they should be - in Stella's case, at least, where she offered post-rave elegance for the jilted generation. At Acne too, clubbing-casual shapes were made sophisticated, and parkas featured across the collections.

Saint Martins 2.0
More than 20 years after they graduated from Saint Martins, the names Hussein Chalayan and Alexander McQueen resonate across the French capital - this season for doing what they do best: innovative and witty, irreverent brilliance. Chalayan created a dress that was embellished with fake nail decals across the front; Sarah Burton at McQueen showed the label at its witchy, gothic finest with a collection inspired by Beauty and the Beast.

Karl's Kash and Karry
The Chanel show to end all Chanel shows? A fabulous representation of consumer culture, the supermarket full of Coco-related items was fodder enough - the 'just shrugged this on to get some milk' aesthetic of the collection inspiring in its high-end ordinariness.

The return
Nicholas Ghesquiere's debut at Louis Vuitton proved all we hoped it to be and more, as he weaved the house's signatures into his own, inimitable sports-tech look, in a retro-futurist 60s silhouette, finished with contrast panels and texture play.

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