Never have the haute crowd in Paris seen so much of the Hacienda – today's Acne Studios show was a coded and covert celebration of the cool kids of the '90s. And that doesn't include the ones wearing Mum jeans in Dalston right now; these were clothes for the Ibiza crowd grown up.

References were deftly woven through with an almost sleight of hand – an Op Art swirl that only just morphed into psychedelia, pale blue on golden bouclé wool. An over-the-head 'mad fer it' anorak reworked in snake effect and cut as a gilet, drawstrung into an elegant empire line. Longer length wide-leg pale denim jeans, Lauren Hutton on first inspection, Bez on the second.

Overall, the finish was strong and sophisticated, the fabrics cleverly far from the streetwear that the design cheekily implied – a soundtrack of The Stone Roses and Portishead was the only giveaway as to what creative director Jonny Johansson and his team were up to.

'Crisp moments on the beach as the autumn comes to an end,' he explained in the show notes. 'Surfing swirls printed on tweed, blanket-like tops and bonded satins.'

There was a rustic feel to chunky rib knits worn as head-to-toe whites, and oversized bobble hats, while shoulder wraps felt snug and soignee.

No mistake, this collection wasn't about clubbing as such, but it was a little nod to the current dilemma facing the original rave kids as they grow older.

In fact, it was the perfect autumn wardrobe of solutions for the Madchester generation struggling to stay cool and cosy at the same time, sure to hit home with that target audience as well as the offbeat Acne customer more broadly. It was another, more subtle way to 'do' '90s, and it feels like we're a little desperate for that.