For the autumn collection which launched his new online magazine 'The Light of Now', designer Elie Saab was inspired by an artist who worked with precisely a lack of that.

Using ombré and degradé techniques, Saab referenced the work of Mark Rothko on full-length bustier dresses and shifts made from ribbed silk. These shifted from oxblood to black and back again; later he also introduced a rich bottle green that explained the show's title of 'Dark Opulence'. 

But it wasn't all gothic glamour: there were matte pastel pink accents, also blended into black on column dresses, or given depth in long velvet gowns slit to the thigh, and flowing goddess gowns with chiffon insets that lent some movement and transparency to their skirts.

Saab doesn't really 'do' daywear, so the absence of everyday pieces isn't an issue - but alongside this label's signature occasionwear pieces there were slightly less grandiose separates: a centurion pleat mini in powder pink, and a deftly cut pair of black cigarette pants.

Nor was this collection all hard edges in its after-dark glamour - there was a feeling of neo-classical elegance to shoulder drapes and asymmetrical sleeves, while a hyper-real floral print on tailored pieces reeled in the romance.

And another trend was developed here too, that of the multi-model exit, with Saab sending groups of three down the catwalk to showcase a paillette phase of sparkling evening dresses and separates at the show's close. (Raf Simons did this at Dior too.) How fabulous.