Patchwork
Continuing from the New York shows, patchworking had a slightly different slant in London, with designers using fun fur and even appliqué. The effect was therefore far less homespun and ragged. At Jonathan Saunders, the notion of patchworking became a tiled print, while he cited the 'vandalism' of cutting something up as the main thrust of his collection.

Shades of Blue
Again a colour we've seen quite a bit of this season already, blue drew the eyes of designers in the capital - and it wasn't just for the odd piece. It was layered and tonal, using different hues for different garments to create a depth of the shade in just one outfit. Cornflower and cobalt were most popular.

Checks
Plaid and tartan kicked things off for autumn in New York, but London designers were rather graphic with their checks. At Peter Pilotto, a digitised and warped window-pane check; at Jonathan Saunders, glittering harlequin motifs; and at Giles a mohair plaid respun in a springy grass green.

Haute Hoodies
You heard the Prime MInister way back when: hug a hoodie! Or for autumn, just buy one - at Christopher Kane and Topshop Unique, there were uptown spins on casual sportswear in ingenious cuts and luxurious fabrics. At Fashion East, Helen Lawrence's take was more avant garde but no less cosy. There's a reason why so many people wear hoodies - they're really snug. Quick, here's our chance to enjoy them in the knowledge we're still on-trend.

The New Silhouette
Following on from Marc Jacobs's eery Dixie jackets for spring 2014, there's a new shape afoot: broad and droopy shouldered, nipped in at the waist or cropped. It's a sort of anti-fit, perhaps, and without doubt aesthetically challenging - one for real fashion fiends only. We love it.

The New Bomber
Without doubt the piece of last season, the bomber jacket has become too ubiquitous to simply keep peddling, so designer have come up with thier latest take on the style: at Giles, it was flat cut; at Jonathan Saunders, volume was increased and it was rendered in leather; and at Erdem, another sheer and couture-esque take on the style.

Lace and Appliqué
Last season saw London designers exploring a new couture edge, with fabulous finishes worthy of the highest Parisian ateliers. This vein continued in carefully pieced together lace and appliqué, most noticably at Burberry, Erdem, Christopher Kane and Jonathan Saunder.

Gold
An autumn collection doesn't mean resigning oneself to a wintry palette - see Burberry and Erdem where gold and metallic jacquard shimmered down the catwalk, casting a warm glow on the wearer. An instant pick-me-up for those with Seasonal Affective Disorder.

Chintz and Baroque
Things took an antique turn at Erdem in bodices and ruffs, but also in tapesty-style and curlicue prints on metallic jacquard, which summoned all the opulence of a Restoration court. Likewise, Paul Smith turned to ancien regime florals for a striking coat, while Simone Rocha channelled Elizabethan necklines and farthingale skirts into something more modern, reinvented in snakeskin.

Glam Rock and Metallics
Meadham Kirchhoff love a bit of David Bowie, and that star-gazing 70s super-fan was at the heart of their autumn collection, but there were glam rock riffs in shimmering leather, lurex and jacquard across the London collections, specifically at House of Holland and Erdem. Even better, this is the kind of glam you can wear in the daytime too, with a chunky knit.

With thanks to Maserati and the new Quattroporte GTS and HR Owen