Karl Lagerfeld brought his own brand of wit to proceedings at the Chanel show in Dubai yesterday, showing quilted handbags in the shape of petrol cans as part of a Cruise show inspired by the city. It was fashionable oil on troubled waters, perhaps, given the nation's vast wealth relies on the profusion of that most political of natural resource.

Classic Karl to reference, in one fell swoop, both the reason he took several hundred guests to the sun-baked island just off the principality's shore in the Persian gulf (that is, cold hard cash – there is almost as much of that washing around Dubai as there is oil) not to mention the august Western history of the house that he is in charge of.

That's his great talent, of course, combining the lucrative with the lightest touch to conjure both laughs and immediate fashion lust. And his business-headed commercialism is becoming more overt with every season – for autumn 2014, of course, he built that giant supermarket in Paris's Grand Palais and effectively caused a fashion week riot. For yesterday's cruise collection, historically a season for the rich to re-stock their wardrobes, he was inspired by 11th and 12th century tiles found in the architecture of the region he gave the brand reason to visit.

The clothes bore all the hallmarks of heritage too: golden threaded quilted jackets, column skirts, appliqué floral jackets intricately worked in purest white, and mirror-tiled dresses that spoke of desert roses and mosaics. But there's no beating around the bush with Karl, and that's what makes him such a successful and well-loved designer. He's a metaphorical, metaphysical wit where the mundane is concerned. What's more, he knows that fashion always boils down to money, and he's determined to have fun with that.

It's a mindset that taps directly into the status-driven culture of the city he staged the show in. Not for the Middle East stealth wealth or minimalism. These customers like their money where everyone else can see it – in a giant chain-handled jerrycan slung over their wife's shoulder.