Jil Sander's gone but her spirit lives on

 
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Since designer Jil Sander's exit from her label last October (for the third time, fans of the brand will recall) the design team left in her wake have been labouring as a committee. The autumn 2014 collection presented today was then the result of their efforts together.

As a result, the plurality of input was reflected in a show that foregrounded clothes over any greater concept - which is no bad thing, given it's those they're looking to sell.

They were sumptuous clothes too, all in the Sander purist vein, minimally cut, deftly differentiated from the norm by technique and fabric, and of the highest possible quality. Visibly luxurious but without shouting about it - that's what this brand's customers are after, regardless of who's in charge.

The wearability of this collection was emphasised by the preponderance of coats it threw up - cocoon-ish styles, double faced cashmere blanket versions, funnel necks and swing jackets, all planate and stark, with concealed pockets, integrated collars and lapels, in barely there shades of spearmint, muted rose and rubbed out grey cashmere and bouclé tweed.

They were cut with this season's rapidly developing off-kilter shoulder, too, a silhouette repeated in dresses that were fitted at the hips and bagged out at the back, with broad and drooping yokes.

There were shift dresses too, in a sort of matte bubblegum pink and ochre, given interest with pin-tucked panels and soft, tectonic inlays of fabric. 

These were the sort of classics-with-a-twist that this brand's followers like. They'll satisfy a loyal core while attracting timid new ones. This period of design democracy at the house will no doubt prove speculative fodder for the press, but it could also mean a fertile fallow time too - a concentration on key pieces without artistic overbearing. It'll need that eventually, of course, but it seems at Jil Sander for now, the committee rules.

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