Spotted on the catwalk in Milan today: a distinctly shiny 90s era tracksuit reference at Marni, in a midnight satin jacket and skirt complete with white go-faster stripes.

That sort of low-brow link isn't often found at this label, but designer Consuelo Castiglioni is increasingly concerned with streetwear and the couture of everyday. For autumn 2014, there was all the sweeping architectural rigour of classic Balenciaga, the arthouse credentials of Schiaparelli, the grace and elegance of Dior, and the sturdy, progressive mindset of Chanel, all combined into a sort of haute and hip uniform.

It's strange to think that, only a few years ago, Marni was known for a techy, almost industrial feel given how recent collections have introduced a determined sense of the rustic into the mix.

That sporty minimalism remains, but today it was mixed with a countrified, artisanal flavour, in brown and olive shades, felt and alpaca, and chunky knits.

The shapes were as clean and as modernist as ever - sheeny, satin-y shell tops with contrast colour panels of bonded neoprene in black and red, olive and cream, and shocking pink, worn with mid-length skirts, some A-line, others more fitted. Some had flamenco frills on the front, others a simple tucked pleat that gave asymmetrical volume and weight.

Silk blouses and dresses were printed in the style of German figuratist Magnus Plessen (reassuringly high-brow), while patchworked and daubed full-length furs took inspiration from his presence-in-absence blocky patterns, blobbed with oxblood, racing green and mustard.

Despite the Land Girl feel that resounded through much of the collection in colour palette and silhouette, there was also a progressive element in padded nylon and a hip-hop fit, oversized shoulders and flat cut sleeves.

That juxtaposition is something Castiglioni looked into last season, with visors and trackpants - since then we've had cashmere tailoring from New York designers and trainers at Chanel couture. These clothes might look relaxed, but they'll work hard for you, should you choose to invest in them.