Topshop's modern and ironic update of school dress code for autumn 2014
Who runs the world? Girls, as Beyonce would have it - and Topshop too, where it played on the soundtrack in London today
But it rings true - those teenage girls once forgotten by the upper end of the industry, Topshop's core customer, are now the ones dictating the trends, in selfies, streetwear and celebrity. Proof came in the personage of Kendall Jenner, whose scrum of departure after the show nearly flattened much of the British fashion press.
And it was in the clothes too, a celebration of schoolgirls, less creepy than that sounds and far cooler than your average school uniform. Boyish blazers were cropped and belted over gamine culottes, cut flat at the sides with plenty of volume in the stride. A palette of mustard, camel, cornflower and cobalt felt like a modern and ironic update of school dress code.
Circle skirts in grey and cornflower worn with midnight blue sateen duvet coats summoned that lovely image of school uniformed Coleen Rooney back in the day, the poster girl for the Topshop school of hip and haute aspiration and a suitable pin-up for this mix of smart and sporty.
There were luxe sweatshirts too, worn with bird print chiffon skirts and embellished with beaded thistle motifs that owed a debt of inspiration to Christopher Kane's last, equally girlish, collection.
That's no diss to Topshop Unique - with every season the design team prove ever more adept at dressing the increasingly fashion literate girl on the street. And what with her look increasingly informing some of the most prestigious catwalks in the world (trainers at couture, people), theirs is an important job. So who runs the world? Girls, yes, but also Philip Green, who sat ringside with Kate Moss, with a Cheshire cat smile.