To the haters, a defence of fashion

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Barely a week goes by without a media attack on the fashion industry. It's racist, misogynist, too exclusive, too ubiquitous. But one academic begs to differ – it's as vital and vibrant as food and popular culture, which we're only too happy to celebrate. So why vilify fashion? Head of London College of Fashion Frances Corner weighs into the debate

Fashion is full of dichotomies and it is these clashes that fuel the future of the industry. Most fundamentals (clothes, food, housing) have evolved within the construct of our society, becoming ever more complex and worthy of debate with the onset of media influence, economic change, class shift, choice and sexual equality.

That fashion upholds the suppression of women and that the industry is misogynistic and controlling, whilst also being trivial and frivolous, are all themes regularly revisited across our media.

"That fashion supresses women, is misogynistic and controlling, trivial and frivolous are all themes regularly revisited across the media"

In my view, this definition of fashion embodies a myopic perspective which perpetuates the thinking of a particular section of our society and media. If there are certain features of the fashion industry that still equate with privilege, force us to question our (particularly Western) ideals of beauty and remind us that our desire for constant change can be detrimental to our environment and wellbeing, then these aspects have been present since people started making clothes for other people to buy.

It's my opinion that fashion is being re-defined. As a Western society, we have in recent years been challenged into re-evaluating fashion both economically and ethically, now seeing it as more than just clothes. Body art, piercings, the celebration of vintage, our appreciation of individual difference through education, sport and art, all seem to me to reflect the concept of fashion and its intrinsic link with our identity in being a force for positive influence.

Fashion offers choice, albeit within individual means. Much like clothing, the hierarchy of needs puts food in the most fundamental, physiological category. But do we then challenge the restaurant and food industry for allowing something that is ‘fuel’ to become something desirable and offered to a consumer with imagination, originality and a variability of cost? Ought we to pity ‘foodies’ who express themselves through the gourmet restaurants that they choose or the magazines which they may read?

For me, the notion of women having better means of expression is illogical. No woman should be influenced into, or judged on, their chosen form of expression. Why should fashion be relegated in its significance?

For some people, fashion is the only way they can express themselves and, in my role as Head of London College of Fashion, I have seen first-hand how fashion can unlock individuality for the first time, and enable personal development. The College’s work under our banner of ‘Better Lives’ sees staff and students using fashion to drive change, build a sustainable future and improve the way we live.

"LCF's work ‘Better Lives’ sees staff and students using fashion to build a sustainable future and improve the way we live"

There is no longer ‘one look’ or way to be fashionable. Around the world, fashion-conscious men and women now have easy, near-instant access to a myriad of styles at a variety of prices. Even more to the point, with the quick upload of their latest ‘looks’, these same men and women can now dictate to the dictators just what is and is not fashionable. The democratisation of fashion is well underway. Long may it reign!

Professor Frances Corner OBE is Head of London College of Fashion. 'Fashion Matters' by Frances Corner is published on 14 April (Thames & Hudson) £9.95

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