There is something so freeing about the idea of wearing a sheerer, lighter foundation. Liberating the complexion from heavy, chalky (but oddly reassuring) formulas, is what defines modern, stylish and aspirational spring beauty.

But, it brings out a sort of bitterness in me that’s not all that pretty. I adore how fresh and youthful it looks on models’ skin, but lament that fact that it looks rubbish on me. My skin isn’t perfect. It’s a bit pink, quite pore-y and since it’s as pale as snow, even blemishes under the skin’s surface are tangible, detectable aggravations.

Is there a happy medium between coverage and a sheer, natural finish? Lancôme’s UK make-up ambassador, and the man behind Naomi Campbell’s contouring, Alex Babsky thinks so, thanks to Lancôme’s Miracle Air de Teint foundation, £29.50, which hit shelves nationwide this week.

‘If what you like is a heavily made-up face, like a well-groomed secretary, it may not be for you,’ explains Babsky when I meet him for a demo of the formula. ‘But I think of [Air de Teint] like a middle ground of make-up, a good base for a woman who doesn’t like to wear a lot of foundation or  at least appear to wear a lot, she hasn’t got time.’

I hear you, Alex. But what of the foundation zealots like me who find themselves piling on about five layers of sheer foundation formulas in order to achieve the sort of high-level coverage that reassures, comforts and covers? ‘This isn’t a buildable product – once it’s on, that’s the finish you end up with, there’s no risk of over-applying. It’s a believable matte finish,’ counters Babsky.

Since my foundation-applying technique is clearly trapped in 1987, Alex gives me the lowdown on how to perfectly apply the new Lancôme’s sheer formula;

1. Get yourself in order
‘Begin with moisturiser, but not moist skin so I always blot with a tissue before applying foundation so it doesn’t slide away immediately. I always apply foundation before concealer because some of what I want to cover can be done with foundation.’

2. Set aside your brushes
‘I normally use a brush, but this product is so good, it seems silly to use a sponge or brush – they’d absorb too much and leave you with nothing. Fingers are better for this.’

3. Start from the middle and work outwards
‘Focus on the areas that need it, leave out the areas that don’t.

4. If you can see it, you’ve applied too much
‘It goes on so quickly and creates a sheer, natural finish that looks like skin. You shouldn’t see the product on your skin. It’s as effective as smoothing texture as it is for coverage. It gives a feeling of real life.’

5. Wrench yourself away from face powder
‘I wouldn’t powder because I always feel like what’s nice is about this is the believable matte texture. It’s like the best 

Photo: Benoît Audureau