There are few sensations more satisfying than giving your skin a really good scrub with your favourite exfoliator and feeling that it’s squeaky clean as a result. However, I think most of us can tell when we’ve got a little scrub-happy – the raw, red appearance and tight, tingling feeling telling us that our skin is not impressed with our overzealous approach.

Could it be that our obsession with scrupulously banishing all dead skin, dirt and impurities through exfoliation is actually, counter intuitively, doing more harm than good? Let’s just take a step back for a moment and focus on what exactly we should be doing, how often, and with what…

First of all, let’s get one thing straight: exfoliating is a Good Thing, you just need to take it easy. Sarah Chapman breaks it down: “All skin types benefit from exfoliation - it lets you give your skin a really deep clean and removes the layer of dead skin cells that can easily block your pores, which helps prevent break outs, congestion and blackheads.”

“Having a thoroughly clean and clear skin allows maximum absorption of your high-performance serums and creams so that you really get the benefit out of your products. On a superficial level the clearing of dead skin cells and general daily grime will help brighten your skin when it’s looking dull and will improve its health and function as it is allowed to breathe.”

But you absolutely must use the lightest of touches. “We can be tempted to really scrub at the skin, believing it has a better effect - no pain no gain… Be gentle – over-scrubbing and exfoliating too often will cause micro tears in the top layers of skin cell, compromise the skin’s barrier function and can make skin sore and red, leading to inflammation and possible skin irritations. Rosacea and very sensitive skin should avoid physical exfoliation, and you need to be careful if you are prone to hyperpigmentation.”

"Avoid nut kernels and shell, these are like rubbing pieces of glass on your face."

Halima, one of the therapists at the QMS Flagship Spa in Sloane Square agrees, “If skin is sensitive, has acne or rosacea it is best to stay away from manual dermabrasion as this can aggravate the skin further.” She advises fruit acids and enzyme-based products like their Exfoliant Fluid or Dermabrasive Gel (both £80, liberty.co.uk), which dissolve dirt and dead skin cells, rather than just moving them around the face. 

Sarah paints a terrifying picture of the tiny sharp granules in exfoliants of old – not nice: “Avoid nut kernels and shell, these are like rubbing pieces of glass on your face and can cause permanent damage, if you are choosing a physical exfoliant make sure you use spherical beads that do not cut into the skin. I prefer chemical exfoliants. Some exfoliators can be harsh and abrasive, that’s why I developed my Overnight Exfoliating Booster (£57, sarahchapman.net) It’s the ultimate lazy girl’s treatment and allows for controlled exfoliation so that there’s no damage done but your skin is left wonderfully soft, clean and bright.

Use the tips of your fingers to gently massage the product over the skin (I use mine in the shower after washing my hair so my skin is damp) and avoid the delicate area around the eyes, paying particular attention to the sides of the nose where blackheads can build up. 

And once and for all, how often should you actually use a facial scrub or exfoliants? I tend to use my beloved Elemis Gentle Rose Exfoliator (£27, cultbeauty.co.uk) or Oskia’s Micro Exfoliating Balm (£46, oskiaskincare.com) once or twice a week at most, and immediately slather on the richest, most nourishing oil or serum I can get my hands on. Halima says, “For younger skins, use a lighter exfoliation once a week, but from 25 years, skin slows down and it starts to change, as a result the glue that holds the dead skin cells together becomes stronger, so try to gently exfoliate two or three times a week.” (Note the key word GENTLY there.)