A study in shine and translucent texture prevails in Paris
In our business, they say three is a trend. Three. A few more and it becomes a ‘hot’ trend. More still and it’s a movement. And that’s what we have here for Autumn/Winter 2014 make-up: Less of a gentle amble and more of a stampede towards seemingly bare-faced, nude looks born of tonal, fleshy browns and taupes – in a see-through, shiny texture. Resist all you will, but at some point next season, you’ll be struck by the desire to relinquish your black kohl and statement lip and look all bare-faced and shiny.
'This season has seen a return to the real art of make-up. To looking beautiful and glowy using high shine – rather than major colour or make-up,' said chief Fashion Week shine merchant, Lucia Pieroni. 'It’s about really studying the face, like a painter would. Really noticing where the natural accents of shadow and highlight fall – then understanding how we can manipulate these into making something more beautiful'.
It’s no co-incidence that Pieroni is herself a former painter. And while she may now have swapped the canvas for the face, the painter’s brush for those of MAC, the philosophy is still the same. Just as masters of the high renaissance developed the technique of chiaroscuro – using contrasts of light and dark to create definition - so make up artists are adding accents of gloss to the skin and glazing the eyelids to encourage facial contours to take centre stage. The result is as sense of translucency – the antidote to hard, heavy make-up ‘looks’. There’s a purity to it – an authenticity that just feels right for now. Mark my words, come autumn that heavy black liner and mascara will just feel de trop.
So here’s three Paris ways to start your study of shine:
At Hussein Chalayan, make-up artist Aaron de Mey stamped his authority on the new ‘winter dewy’ via ‘moisture highlights’ on the eyelids and upper cheekbones – then added a swipe down the centre part of the face for good measure. Extra shiny brownie points go to those who use a hairspray-moistened old toothbrush to add a glossy sheen to their brows.
Lip products ousted eye shadow and blusher from the beauty top spot as shine took on a ruddier, whipped-by-the-elements aesthetic at Vanessa Bruno in a look that was one part early Kate Moss and the other an intrepid Amelia Earhart. Delicately shimmering Coquettish and Close To You shades from the MAC AW14 Forecast Palette/Lips hugged the lower edge of the brows, leaving pinky Twig lipstick to snuggle into the cheekbones and potter dewily over the bridge of the nose. A stippling of gel on the temples and lids added an extra dimension of light reflection for something that was gorgeous in its simplicity.
Alex Box meanwhile at Issey Miyake, had poetic visions of woodland nymphs when adding a slither of autumnal copper glitter to the lower lash line, just at the inner corner of the eye. The kind of tiny, smidgen of a detail you might find in a Van Dyke that imperceptibly sends light back into the eye to make it appear brighter, perkier – and infinitely prettier.