The Parisian ingenue goes ultra low-maintenance at Louis Vuitton

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To give all this its rightful context, this being Nicolas Ghesquiere’s much-hyped debut for Louis Vuitton, we were expecting change. Maybe even a nuanced echo of the beauty from Balenciaga seasons past, if we were lucky.

And to a certain extent, we were afforded a little nostalgia this morning by way of 90s borderline-lank hair, deflated at the roots and lazily wavy through the lengths, at the hands of Guido Palau and dewy, Lolita-esque scrubbed complexions from the mighty Pat McGrath. It’s a nu-grunge aesthetic that couldn’t have been more at odds with Marc Jacobs’ (literal) swansong at the Spring/Summer 2014 Vuitton show where dramatic black feather headdresses met stark black brows on sun-starved skin. A contrast indeed.

If Ghesquiere and his beauty co-collaborators were intending to ring the changes at Vuitton and inject a giant shot of youthy zeitgeist into a house that, in past seasons, has played more into the comfortable laps of its mature, monied core customer base, then they succeeded. Now it’s their teenage daughters they’re talking to.

If we needed any more signals that the new Louis will be a very different operation under Ghesquiere, the clever so-and-so released a few choice shots of the collection, shot by Jurgen Teller, while the seats at his Paris show were still warm. Here again, this 90s-teenager-come-Parisian-ingenue beauty aesthetic is at play. Case in point - an extremely pared-down vision of the Ethiopian model, Liya Kebede, skin seemingly bare (though in beauty speak we know this means a concealer or two have been artfully deployed in the very least), hair loose, barely brushed and parted slightly to one side. All the better to show off the industrially-sculptured single earrings that hung from every models’ left ear.
 
So, full steam ahead then for a new age of Vuitton dames, or should we say damoiselles? This seemingly high-low mix of a nubile model, bundled out of bed with barely enough time to drag a comb through her hair, then zipped straight into threads that would set her back a year’s salary, is something we can fully get on board with. It’s low maintenance, albeit in the most luxe, laissez-faire Parisian way.
 
Image courtesy of Amanda Murphy via Instagram

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