What really goes on behind the scenes? Industry experts share their knowledge...

Geoffrey J Finch is the Creative Director of London-based label Antipodium, famed for its beautiful-but-humorous prints - which have involved everything from phallic daffodils and maps of London, to emojis and surgical markings - and its pretty (think sheer dresses, soft blouses and skater skirts) but cool-kid (buttoned up shirts, sporty details, metallics) style. We spoke to the designer, who once tried to lure Pam St Clement and June Brown (Eastenders’ Pat Butcher and Dot Cotton respectively) to London Fashion Week about how he came to head up one of the city’s hottest young labels. 

What made you want to work in fashion?
My mother was a dressmaker so I grew up to the sound of the sewing machine. Technically, boys in country Queensland are not supposed to be fashion designers so for a while I was going to be an architect. Then I realised that I would have to do things like electrical plans so I eventually came back to fashion. 

How did you get into fashion?
It’s been unlikely experiences that have got me where I am.  I went to France on exchange after I finished school and by a strange twist of fate ended up studying the principals of haute couture in the middle of regional France, but that’s about the only fashion study I did – everything else I learned by winging it on the job. 

Following that I went back to Brisbane where I had a telemarketing job selling photocopiers. Through the boss’ wife, I got a job in fashion wholesaling, which got things started. That job in telemarketing was probably the best training I ever had though – using your voice only to sell a photocopier is quite a skill so I guess when you’ve managed to do that, you’re geared up to do anything. 

How did your job at Antipodium come about?
When I moved to London I started interning at Antipodium, which at that point was a retail store and an agency for Australian labels coming into the UK. Eventually a position became available doing wholesale for them and then I worked up through the ranks there until I was overseeing the operation. I started making a couple of pieces for the store, which got spotted by British Vogue and a buyer from Liberty and that’s when we decided to get serious as a label.  

Tell me about the print designers you collaborate with for Antipodium…
The current collection, resort 2013, features an incredible ‘teddy-boy’s picnic’ print by a London artist called Russell Maurice, and we’ve continued working with Russell for the main autumn 2013 collection, so the prints will have the same knowing naivety as resort.  

Artist collaborations come about in weird and wonderful ways, and they’re an integral part of Antipodium. We collaborated with people like Jamie Pilman, who’s the creative director of British Vogue, following a late night texting session using emoticons, which became the emoji collection. We also collaborated with Dr Tim Goodacre, the president of the British association of plastic, reconstructive and aesthetic surgery, on the spring 2013 main collection, so our surgical markings print is all medically correct. 

If you weren’t in fashion, what would you do?
I’d like to say something noble like sociology but I’d probably do real estate. I think I could be quite a real estate shark – watch out Candy brothers!

 
What’s your favourite thing about being a designer?
Fashion is an industry full of freaks which is compelling. All the incredible people that you meet and work with along the way make it great.

 
What’s the worst thing about being a designer?
Growing a business comes with certain costs and as a business model, fashion is rather uncouth I guess. It involves a monstrous cash flow cycle which can be rather trying, but you know, we can’t complain. 

Which designs are you most proud of?
The designs that are yet to come are the ones that I’m most proud of. The funny thing with design is that once you’ve finished something, you really hate it, and then it takes a few months and you come back around to it. 

What’s been the best moment of your career so far? 
Liberty was first customer that ordered Antipodium and that was quite an amazing moment – they’re the real reason why we even started the label. Similarly, I’ll never forget getting the Barney’s order. I was sitting in the waiting room at the osteopath and the email from them came through and I started crying, so the osteopath was rather concerned!  

Where‘s your favourite place to go after work?
My friend’s restaurant in Borough market, Elliot’s. The cocktail menu in the new bar is a little too attractive.  I also love The Corner Room at Town Hall Hotel and I really like Unpackaged on Richmond Road. For a drink, I’m very neighbourhood based, so I’ll go to The Royal Oak on Columbia Road, or The Sebright Arms on Hackney Road, which is very close to our studio. The cider’s cold and the boys are hot!

What music are you playing the most right now?
I’m quite into this group called Blue Hawaii, an electronic group from Montreal. I discovered them the other day and I’ve been listening to them quite a lot. Them and the Dirty Dancing soundtrack, I’m not going to lie. 

What’s your favourite part of London?
I love Hampstead Heath. Probably because I grew up in the country, open space becomes increasingly attractive as I get older. It was slightly crushing getting off the overground at Hackney Central on the way back.  

 

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