It's no surprise that LVMH are rumoured to be taking a keen interest in JW Anderson. None whatsoever. For London fashion week aficionados, Anderson has been our great white hope as the next Christopher Kane since his autumn 2011 collection when he started a global paisley and pyjama pant phenomenon that was followed by just about every great fashion house already keeping a close watch on our Jonathan. 

Naturally over the seasons his shows have grown from intimate salon style to full-blown 500+ capacity show with long-time supporter Alexa Chung front row, as was the case today. Many many of his cute floral or graphic windowpane checks were represented front row. It's become a uniform for stylists and editors. When MyWardrobe.com recently offered journalists a generous pre-fashion week discount across its labels, stores of JW Anderson were depleted within the hour. He sells. Partly because it's original and wearable. Partly because it's not scary expensive. After this spring 2014 however, it would be very surprising if those price tag digits didn't rise exponentially. 

This was a mature, refined, expensive collection. It screamed of a designer ready to take on the next challenge in his meteoric rise. With his skilful, intricate way with leather and pleather whether as a stiff waffle gilet or printed and pleated like a car mat and wrapped around the body, Anderson is now a name to stand up against the Paris designers. He can go from a New Look Dior full skirt one season to a sculpted Balenciaga top the next. 

But his themes of previous collections remain. The slashed sweaters and single clothed arm were there alongside this new formal direction. It spoke of origami folds, a multitude of textures, fabric diced and sliced to show bare skin and, according to the show notes, an homage to the Vileda floormap and wipe clean tablecloths. Yes Mrs Mop was there too in her high shine calf lengths and sliders. 

For all it's references though, this was an impeccably pulled together and cohesive show and one that will be this season's highlight.