Ceviche’s head chef is over dude food
From going out to galleries, eating out to entertainment, the in-crowd gives us their recommendations.
London’s cool crowd aren't just binging on dirty burgers and noodles you know. One of Soho’s brightest culinary gems, Ceviche, is another top hangout for cocktails, style-spotting, and of course, the restaurant’s eponymous dish – a Peruvian speciality of fish marinated in citrus juices and chilli.
As head chef Martin Morales publishes his secrets to making the up-and-coming cuisine, in his new book, Ceviche Peruvian Kitchen, he shared with us his favourite food haunts in London, and some further flung locations.
I spend Saturday nights searching the web for rare Peruvian vinyl when I’m not cooking at Ceviche or watching Luther on catch-up.
If you want to taste Peru in Peru, all its flavours and soul, go to La Nueva Palomino in Arequipa. Tradition and passion are abundant. For me every single dish is delicious but there is a quiet superstar in there: the quinoa and prawn chowder. Wow.
Fine dining in the old sense is dead for me. It's soul-less, over the top, egocentricity which focusses more on technique, presentation and peer-pressure than on flavour. So, 'fancy' is not what I look for. I like new, exotic, unique, passionate cooking, created by people who have lived, are creative, have felt pain or come from another place.
The most exciting British restaurant right now is The Ethicurean just outside Bristol. If I lived next door I would go for a fancy meal there every night. Matthew and Iain Pennington, its self-taught chefs, have an incredibly powerful cooking ethos, are working with local produce and gathering ingredients grown on their restaurant's grounds, and are creating dishes with global influences.
I'm sick of dude food, burgers, and cheap fried-everything, so 10 Greek Street in Soho is my favourite place for a cheap dinner. It's independent, the food is cooked with a tonne of soul, creativity and inquisitiveness, and these guys are honest, sincere and lovely people who deserve our hard-earned money.
Eating out in London is becoming more and more interesting. Cocktail bars are getting more inventive and restaurants are becoming more casual and daring. London's variety in eating out excites me and I think food-wise, London is best for that meeting point between urban and international cooking.
Pop ups have been around for thousands of years under various names so they aren't going away anytime soon. They are always a risk worth taking as something good fun happens - you can meet new people, try new food, or see the drama unfold from a crazy host. They are built on passion or desperation or inventiveness so there is always theatre and electricity in the room which is worth going for.