As pope, it's Francis's job to make stuff less fun, but it's Suzy Menkes opinion that he's had quite the effect on the Italian fashion scene, subduing usually flagrantly opulent labels with his own sense of conservative and stripped back ascetic. Sounds like Helmut Lang, doesn't he?

Menkes's theory is that Pope Benedict, the last one, who ducked out earlier this year, gave in to sins of the fash every so often (hem hem, red velvet slippers; cough cough cough, shiny white satin pimp-suit for own abdication ceremony) and, in doing so, justified the italianate obsession with all things bling, flashy and near-sacriligiously flamboyant.

And? What of it?

Well heathens, Dolce's autumn 2013 collection was inspired by the church: ecclesiastical stained glass windows adorned dresses as prints, while jewelled crowns picked up the sartorial highlights of old Constantinople, the centre of the Christian world for many centuries. How best to celebrate God and the world he created than to revel in his love of gold and pay fat stacks for some beautiful clothes inspired by His might?

But Suzy Menkes argues that, latterly, there have been 'clerical collars', sober shades and mannish shoes spotted in and around the Italian fashion scene. Quick, somebody tell Roberto Cavalli!

Click the gallery for more unlikely authorities on style.