Dispatches from the world of high-performance, science-driven skincare

You’ll have heard of Glycolic acid before. On a television advert perhaps, featuring a model cleansing her face. Or maybe you've seen it in written in small type across the bottom of a tube of cleanser in Space NK. And, you’ve probably done your best to avoid it because it sounds utterly frightening. Like torture. Or like 'the bubonic plague', or the vernacular for some sort of industrial-grade carpet cleaner. 

Poor Glycolic acid, it's been so misunderstood. It's the one ingredient that has quietly formed a symbol of quality in mind, if I see it on the packaging of skincare, I'm instantly intrigued. Because, sort of like Pavlov's dog, I've begun to equate Glycolic acid with really-effective-skincare-that-makes-a-difference, which, let's face it, isn't always that easy to find.

It began with Dr Sebagh's Deep Exfoliating Mask, £59, a couple of years ago. I should have known from the boiler-suit orange shade of the gunky gel that it had some serious power, but when it started to tingle on my skin, I panicked. But I waited it out. And my skin, unlike so many other masks I'd tried, actually looked different afterwards - slightly springier, sheenier, smoother and... more alive. Now, I crave the tingle of glycolic-infused skincare, because I know it's really doing something spectacular. 

So just what is Glycolic acid? 'Glycolic acid works by breaking down the bridges between surface-layer skin cells to reveal a brighter, smoother layer beneath,' explains expert dermatologist, Dr Sam Bunting. 'In doing so, it also speeds up the elimination of pigmented areas and can improve the appearance of post-inflammatory pigmentation.'

In short, Glycolic acid is an exfoliator - but in chemical form, rather than mechanical. And perhaps surprisingly, it's arguably gentler to skin. Instead of tiny little pieces of grit scratching against the surface of your skin, Glycolic acid brushes them away without causing unnecessary damage to the dermis. 'I prefer chemical exfoliants,' says the beauty worlds's new favourite facialist, Debbie Thomas. 'Gylcolic acid is brilliant for brightening the skin, making it look more radiant and it's really great for treating breakouts quickly,' she says.

Often referred to as a Glycolic peel, most skincare products that contain the acid, don't actually generate a visible peeling of the skin as they're included in small quantities of 4 or 5%. Still, this isn't child's play. Debbie advises to err on the side of caution. 'Even though we call it a peel, it's originally derived from the sugarcane, but it must still be used properly. Always read the manufacturer's instructions regarding the frequency of use as this will pertain to the particular amount of Glycolic acid in that product,' she says.

Ultimately, used in moderation, Gycolic acid can drastically improve the look of your skin. Just don't get hooked on it.

Click the gallery for my favourite skin-resurfacing Gylcolic acid mainstays.