'Make-up isn't about rules, it's about options'. Bobbi Brown talks beauty

 

'Make-up isn't about rules, it's about options'. Bobbi Brown talks beauty

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She's the example to follow in the world of beauty; her idea, to create a natural line of lip colours, has evolved into one of the biggest and most trusted brands around. As she makes her debut at London Fashion Week, Bobbi Brown opens up about her inspirations, the business of beauty and aiming high.

You're in London to lead the make-up for the L'Wren Scott show. How did this come about and has it been your first London Fashion Week relationship?
I met L'Wren in London at my brand’s 20th anniversary celebration luncheon. We instantly clicked and spent the entire night talking, and even entertained the idea of working together in the future. Then, a couple of months before London Fall 2013 Fashion Week, she called and asked if I would create the make-up look for her show and I said, ‘Yes, absolutely!’. It was my first ever London Fashion Week and of course I was thrilled.

What else will you do while in London?
I’ll definitely have dinner at Scott’s one night and tea at my favourite hotel, the Connaught. They offer the best selection of teas – especially the ginger tea that they brew daily from thin-sliced ginger root. I’ll also make sure to visit Dover Street Market for their unique jewellery and Liberty to browse their cool selection of scarves.

You’re the original celebrity make-up artist turned beauty brand. How did you get your very first products made and onto market?
Soon after graduating, I moved to New York to start my career as a freelance make-up artist. New York was full of opportunities; it really was the place to be if you were looking to start a career in artistry, film, etc. But I soon became frustrated by the lack of flattering make-up on the market. It was impossible to find make-up that looked good on skin. I almost always had to ‘fix’ the products I bought, blending shades together until I got something that looked natural.

I saw a major void in the cosmetics industry that I knew I could address. My vision was a lip collection that included all tones and could be mixed and blended to create any colour-correct lip shade. As a working make-up artist, I had a lot of professional relationships that helped me turn my idea into reality. I met a chemist during a shoot who ended up making my lipsticks. Once I had the final product, I was selling the make-up out of my house via mail order. It was written about in Glamour magazine by the beauty editor at the time.

And then one night, I met the cosmetics buyer at Bergdorf Goodman at a party. I told her about these lipsticks and she really embraced my natural beauty approach and wanted to sell them in the store. Then in February 1991, I debuted my line of lipsticks at Bergdorf Goodman - women seemed to really embrace these uniquely flattering shades and my realistic approach to beauty.

"I've always dreamed big and been determined to reach my goals - whatever they might be."

Have you always had such self-belief and drive?
I’ve always dreamed big and been determined to reach my goals– whatever they might be. I learned a lot from my grandfather, Papa Sam. He moved here from Russia when he was a boy and he worked his way up selling newspapers and ladies' handbags, and eventually, he became Cadillac Sam, one of the biggest car dealers in Chicago. He taught me to never take no for an answer. If one door closes, look for a back door or a side door.

What would you have done if you hadn’t gone into beauty?
I’d be a nutritional chef. I love trying out new healthy recipes, using the vegetables from my garden.

Tell me about the timeline of a new product. Do you think ‘Damn, I really want to do a new eye pencil,' and take it from there? Or are the ideas brought to you?
I draw inspiration from a variety of places – from travelling, to colourful fabrics, to everyday women I see on the street and also out of sheer need. I’m also always listening to our international customers and make-up artists from around the world through our social media channels like Facebook, Twitter etc, to make sure that we give our customers exactly what they want.

Sometimes products also get developed on the spot. A few years ago, I was doing my own makeup for a shoot, and I realised I forgot to bring eyeliner. I reached into my bag and found waterproof mascara so I took a Q-tip and lined my eyes with the mascara, and it lasted through the night – that’s how Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner was born.

You’re a creative, artistic person. Was the shift to ‘mega businesswoman’ a big adjustment, or can you remain yourself in the corporate world?
The atmosphere at our offices is really laid back. I like being comfortable and it’s important that my staff work in a friendly, open and healthy environment where they can really be creative. I like to sit on the floor with my team and work. I don’t like to sit in fancy chairs. It’s really important to the culture of my company that people understand who they’re working for.

"My goal has always been to empower women with the right knowledge, make-up and tools to help a woman look and feel her best."

Which other men and women in either beauty or business inspire you most?
Leonard Lauder, chairman emeritus of Estée Lauder Companies Inc, has been an amazing mentor to me. Leonard is incredibly charismatic and friendly with everyone he comes in contact with. When Leonard gives speeches and talks about his close relationships with people, I can promise you that everyone in the room thinks he's talking just about them.

And I’ll never forget one of the first things he said to me when I became part of the Esteé Lauder family; He said, “As your boss the best you can do is travel the world, but as a mother you need to be home for your kids.”

Which of your own products can you not live without?
I never leave the house without concealer, mascara and blush. I’m obsessed with our newest mascara formula that adds dramatic volume and length in just one stroke (it’s launching this autumn). Concealer is the secret of the beauty universe. When applied correctly, it instantly makes you appear awake and refreshed, no matter what’s going on in the outside world.

Last but not least, blush is the epitome of instant pretty. My go-to blush shade is Pale Pink – it looks great on every complexion. My tip for finding the most natural look is to choose a shade that looks like your cheeks after you’ve just exercised.

What do you want women to get from your brand?
My goal has always been to empower women with the right knowledge, makeup and tools to help a woman look and feel her best. Rather than trying to change or distort a woman’s features, I use makeup to enhance the features that make her unique. I believe that makeup isn’t about rules. It’s about options. And I try to communicate this message of self-confidence and empowerment through my products, my philanthropic work and Pretty Powerful campaign.

Click through the gallery to see Bobbi's six best-selling beauty buys...

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