Hussein Chalayan will become Vionnet’s demi-couture designer, launching his first collection for the French house during Couture Fashion Week in Paris on January 21^st.

The match is a clever one. Founder Madame Vionnet was known as the ‘architect among dressmakers’ and she collaborated with architect Ferdinand Chanut, decorator George de Feure and sculptor Rene Lalique. 

From the atelier’s launch in 1912 to its closure due to WW1 in 1939, Vionnet built a reputation as an innovator, striking a balance between experimentation and elegance, claiming the bias cut as her own which she had the foresight to copyright far ahead of this being the norm.

During Hussein Chalayan’s 20 years as the head of his eponymous label his work has been characterised by innovative techniques, avant-garde design and a heavy architectural bent. The British/Turkish Cypriot’s CV ticks off Bjork’s tour outfits, a double crowning as Designer of the Year, numerous exhibitions and retrospectives plus an MBE. His Paris ready-to-wear shows draw a loyal fanbase who admire the skill of his craftsmanship and cutting.  

Goga Ashkenazi, Vionnet’s current chairman and creative director, said ‘I’m extremely happy about this collaboration because I think that Hussein is a super-talented, forward-thinking designer. He is a true artist, very conceptual. He represents what Madeleine Vionnet represented in her era’.

Vionnet launched its demi-couture line for spring 2013, a line of one-off dresses made using high production values and fabrics, but sold at lesser prices than traditional couture.

Couture fashion week begins on Sunday 19 January. 

See Hussein Chalayan's spring 2013 ready-to-wear show